Regardless of the information provided here, we recommend that the user read over the specific instructions and drawings that come with the kit before beginning. Although the specifications below are accurate for all variants we have sold in the past, there are minor variations in the drill hole sizes and screw types as shown. Also, it is important that you determine the type of receiver you are using (stamped or milled) before you begin.

Although this pictorial instruction page may seem long, the installation is very simple. Basically, you are only measuring, marking and drilling two small holes on the left side of your receiver for the installation of the two provided screws. There is no tapping to be done, since the plate contains the threaded holes and the screws are inserted from inside the receiver.

This Chinese Norinco "Hunter" was manufactured without an optics mounting attachment, and is therefore a prime candidate for our pictorial instructions. An MPK series mounting plate kit will be used for this purpose. Ease of installation, a factory look, and the ability to properly mount various types of Russian military and commercial AK optical aids are chief advantages over other designs.

KIT INCLUDES:

Plate

Screw set(s)

Allen wrench tool

Instructions

TOOLS NEEDED:

Measuring device (ruler, calipers)

scribe,or pointed tool

center punch (or sharp instrument)

hammer (or mallet)

power drill (hand or drill press)

drill bits, high speed steel (see instructions for size)

clean working surface

STEP 1: After ensuring the weapon is unloaded, field strip and remove the firing mechanism (trigger group). All users should be familiar with this procedure. Removing the internals may not be totally necessary, but is recommended and will save time and effort, while making it easier to clear the interior of any metal shards after the drilling process.

STEP 2: Use a good ruler, caliper, or other device to measure the horizontal distance labeled "B" in the instructions. This is measured from the front edge of the receiver. Mark distance "B" with a scribe or sharp tool. Note that the instructions that come with the plate have different dimensions for distance "B" according to the receiver type. Just make a small vertical scratch in the finish.

B= 106mm (4.17") for stamped, or 109mm (4.29") for milled

STEP 3: Using this mark as a guide, measure the vertical distance of 22.5mm/.886" ("A" for forward hole) to intersect the location already measured. Mark this location with a horizontal scratch to form an "x" as it intersects your previous marking. This is the first screw hole location. Be sure to check each measurement twice (and after marking) before any drilling is performed. Please be careful but do not become nervous, since minor deviations are acceptable and will not affect the performance or function of your optic. Check the interior of your rifle to make sure the hole location is flat and free of obstacles. The locations have been chosen with care and work with all types of AK designs, and any interference with rifle internals would indicate your measurements have been vastly incorrect.

Once the first hole location is confirmed to be fairly accurate and has been clearly marked, use a mallet/hammer and a sharp center punch (or nail), to make a dimpled impression. Do not use more force than necessary, especially with stamped receivers. Very little displacement of metal will be needed to keep your drill on target and limit "walking" of the bit.

STEP 5: At this time, you can either measure the second hole, or drill the first one. In this pictorial, we have opted to go ahead and drill the first hole, which may make it easier to measure accurately to the second. Note that the use of a drill press is strictly an option, and is not necessary, although it will make it easier for you to keep the rifle steady and the drill stable. We like to use "Split Tip" or "Bullet Tip" high speed steel drill bits, which work fast and are virtually "walk free". These are available at any hardware store. Use a drill size of 3/16" for the MPK plate kit which uses 10-24 button socket cap screws, or 6.5-7mm for the MTK/MTKM kits, which are supplied with metric shouldered cap screws. If metric bits are unavailable in your area, a 1/4 bit will work if the hole is reamed out slightly (more accurately, a 17/64 bit works perfectly).

STEP 6: Following the instruction sheet supplied with the rail kit, measure the horizontal distance from the center of the first hole to the location of the second hole. Measure horizontally from center of hole one to a point 76mm (2.99") rearward, and make a new vertical mark. Once we have done this, a second measurement of 20.5mm/.807" ("A" for rear hole) is used to find the vertical distance from the top edge of the receiver to an intersecting location. This point is cross-marked, rechecked, and made ready for drilling. You can now also test fit the plate over the receiver, aligning the holes in the plate with the forward hole you have drilled and the location you have just marked. The new rear most mark should be visible in the rear threaded hole of the plate. If it is not, recheck your measurements.

STEP 7: Drill the second hole according to your markings. Each hole should be made free of burrs. You will note that the holes are not aligned parallel, since there is a 2mm difference in their vertical distance from the top edge of the receiver. If these are drilled an equal distance from the top edge, the plate will be canted.

STEP 8: Clean the interior and exterior of the receiver of all metal particles, and prepare the plate and screws for installation. Note that on MPK kits there are two sets of screws. For stamped receivers (and on most milled receivers) the shorter set of screws will be used. The longer set can be used on milled receivers with extra thick (+2mm) wall thickness. The main thing to keep in mind is that more thread extension means a better connection, but under no circumstances can the screw extend past the face of the mounting plate.

STEP 9: The screws insert from inside the receiver. Use the supplied L-shaped Allen wrench tool to secure the screws. The forward screw location can be reached from either above or through the magazine well. Start the screw but do not completely tighten it. MPK plates are attached with common button head screws, while MTKM plates use shouldered screws which have bearing surfaces that press fit into the plate upon the last few threads. This means they take an excessive amount of force to completely thread into the attachment.

STEP 10: The rear most screw can be installed from above. Once both screws are started, press the plate flat against the receiver and check the alignment with the top edge of the receiver wall. The primary goal is to keep the plate parallel with the top edge. Theoretically, this would align the plate with the bore of the rifle. This is not always true, as some rifle's have misaligned bores. Per Russian instruction, any deviation can be correctly by slightly slotting the rear hole and pivoting the plate slightly. There should be little reason to do so, since minor angle adjustments can be corrected easily by the optic.

STEP 11: Once the plate is checked for position and fit, you can tighten the attaching screws firmly. Russian instructions recommend that you peen the edge of each screw end where it meets the threads, to keep it from backing out. You can also use thread locking products such as Loc-tite. This is normally not necessary.

STEP 12: Assemble the rifle and install your optic. All Russian optics have fully adjustable clamping mechanisms and in some cases, should be adjusted for a rock tight fit to your new plate. See the instructions for each optic, or check this site, for more information about adjusting Russian style optic mounting clamps. Once competed, the optic should not rock, move or wiggle in any way, and should remain stable as long as the clamp is in the locked position.

NOTE: Every attempt has been made to make these instructions and tips as accurate as possible. This task has been performed hundreds of times on various type of weapons by a multitude of both amateur and professional gunsmith types. However, even with our convictions that this is a simple procedure, we cannot take liability for any damage to property or persons caused by the performance of this installation. Since we are unable to oversee each and every performance of this task, or know the extent of modifications and design differences others have done to their rifles, we cannot control the outcome.

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